Everything you need to know about thread, stitch length, and placement for a high-end finish.
As a designer, I know that topstitching is not only a functional detail but also a space for creative exploration.
In the high-end fashion industry, topstitching is never an afterthought. Multiple samples are often made to fine-tune the finish on a specific fabric, and parameters such as thread, colour, stitch length, spacing, and placement are carefully recorded in the tech pack. These are important design choices, as they greatly influence the overall character of a piece.
For home sewers, topstitching offers a chance to experiment and express your aesthetic: it can be clean and refined with minimal topstitching, or bold and graphic with a workwear-inspired edge. When truly considered, topstitching doesn’t just finish a garment; it elevates it.
To begin, let’s go over what topstitching is. At its core, it is simply a visible stitch on the outside of a garment. Its function can be practical—reinforcing a seam or holding a detail in place—but it can also be entirely decorative.
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Chanel SS26 — Subtle topstitching details evoke a jersey sweatshirt on this silk blouse. |
Acne Studios SS20 — Contrasting topstitching and bartacks create a distinctive pattern on this shirt. |
Thread Selection
Choosing the right thread is the first key to achieving a professional finish. My go-to is Gütermann Mara, a high-quality thread available in a wide range of thicknesses and colours. Lightweight fabrics are best paired with a thin Mara 120 (which is your normal sewing thread), while mid-weight fabrics like wool or cotton canvas benefit from Mara 70 which will stand out more against the heavier fabric. For denim, outerwear fabrics, or heavy wool coatings, Mara 30 offers the strength and visual weight to catch the eye.
Using a good quality thread and a weight that is suited to your fabric is essential. That said, don’t be afraid to experiment, as sometimes a clash between fabric and topstitching weight can bring interesting effects. A thicker thread can make a seam feel bold, while a thinner thread appears delicate and discreet. I always test different weights on scrap fabric before committing to the final garment.
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Colovos Resort 2020 — The heavy topstitching thread stands out on this sheer, lightweight shirt, giving it a surprising denim feel. |
Stitch Length
Stitch length is a subtle but important parameter. On delicate fabrics, a shorter stitch (around 4.5 to 6 stitches/cm) creates a refined finish. Heavier fabrics, in contrast, benefit from longer stitches (around 3.5 to 4.5 stitches/cm), which look more balanced. For workwear-inspired garments or denim, stitches can be even longer (as low as 2.5 stitches/cm) when paired with a heavy topstitching thread. Combined with thread weight, stitch length determines whether topstitching reads as bold or subtle.
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Miu Miu SS24 — The deliberately long stitch length on this blazer references classic leather goods detailing. |
Celine FW16 — A short stitch length in contrast colour cleverly highlights the collar and cuffs of this shirt. |
Colour
The choice of thread colour can be really impactful. Tonal threads are often preferred, matching the fabric shade closely for a clean finish. Yet, contrasting threads, such as warm tobacco on denim, draw attention to the stitching itself, turning a seam into a deliberate design feature. On runway garments, you’ll often see subtle variations: a slightly darker shade of thread than the fabric, or an ecru topstitch on a black cloth to accentuate a detail.
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Hermès FW19 — Thick ecru topstitching adds a contrast against black suede. |
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Celine SS16 — Sometimes tonal topstitching is enough to underline the seams, as on this corset-inspired dress |
Hermes SS25 —
Placement
Where the topstitching sits in relation to the seam is another important consideration. Lightweight fabrics respond well to edge stitching placed just 1 mm from the seam. Thick fabrics, such as wool coating, require wider spacing—sometimes up to 1 or 1.2 cm—to prevent the stitch from being lost in the bulk and to maintain visual balance. Multiple rows of stitching, whether twin or triple, can add a decorative detail and be easily achieved on a domestic machine with special needle fittings. For custom spacing, you may need to sew each line individually. Done well, the right placement ensures that the stitch enhances the cuts and details of a piece.
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Bottega Veneta Resort 2024 — Wide-set topstitching brings a workwear edge to this suit jacket. |
Burberry FW2016 — Triple topstitching on this parka enhances the outerwear’s details. |
Prada FW15 — Wide-set topstitching highlights the loftiness of this neoprene suit. |
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Celine SS15 — Triple topstitching expertly placed. |
Celine SS16 — The wide topstitching around the darts creates a mock corset effect on this jacket. |
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Decorative Stitches
Topstitching doesn’t have to be limited to straight lines. AMF or pick stitching is a classic tailoring stitch, but it can be used in unexpected ways, bringing a tailoring touch to a dress or even a denim piece. Zigzag stitches are usually associated with stretch fabrics or undergarments, but they can be experimented with on almost any fabric. Most electronic sewing machines offer a wide variety of decorative stitches, giving you plenty of room to play. I always encourage testing different stitch styles on scraps first, as you may discover a combination that completely transforms the garment.
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Prada SS15 — A bold embroidery stitch replaces traditional topstitching. |
Maison Margiela Spring 2020 Couture — Visible tailor’s basting stitches are used decoratively in place of topstitching. |
Unknown — The coverstitch on this jersey adds a sporty feel to a basic tank |
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Machine Tension
Thicker threads often require slightly loosening your machine tension to prevent puckering. You may also want to use the same thread in the bobbin to balance out the tension or because you need the same thickness on both sides (on a jacket’s lapel, for instance). In this case, you might need to loosen the tension of your bobbin case as well. Testing on scrap fabric is essential; even subtle differences in tension can affect the final result.
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Ultimately, topstitching—or the deliberate choice to leave it out—can completely change the aesthetic of a garment. When planning your topstitching, consider the overall mood you want to convey. Experiment with thread, colour, and stitch length, and always test your choices on scraps. With attention to detail, topstitching becomes more than a technical step. It becomes a design decision, a signature that elevates your handmade garment into something truly exceptional.
