How to make fashion’s most reimagined garment uniquely yours
“La chemise” was one of the very first design exercises we tackled in fashion school. Reinventing the shirt through volume, detailing, or fabric manipulation quickly became a kind of playground for first-year students overflowing with ideas.
For home sewists, the familiar components that are the collar, cuffs, or plackets are anchors for your creativity, and can be altered or rethought entirely with often minor pattern alterations.
As a designer, I’ve always felt most creative when working within a set of parameters, and the shirt remains one of my favourite garments to reinvent. Today, I want to take you on a small journey through shirt detailing: not a complete shirt encyclopedia, but a look at how its key elements can inspire new styles to try in your next sewing projects.
The volume
The oldest known item of clothing in the world is, interestingly enough, a linen shirt. Found in a First Dynasty Egyptian tomb at Tarkhan and dating back to around 3000 BC, it shows how ancient the shirt archetype really is.
For most of history, shirts were undergarments, a protective, hygienic layer worn close to the skin. Well into the late 19th century, it was still considered improper in Western dress to appear in public wearing a shirt alone. As a result, historical shirts were loose, long, and soft, and were designed more for comfort than display.
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American shirt, 19th century — The Met Museum |
Once shirts became an acceptable outfit choice in the 20th century, their volume began to reflect fashion trends, social attitudes, and new ideas about gender and silhouette. And to this day, women’s shirts oscillate between extremes: dramatically oversized and sometimes sculptural silhouettes, and slim-fitted shapes reminiscent of the late 1990s and early 2000s.
For makers:
Understanding the intended volume of a shirt is paramount when choosing a pattern, as changing it later would require a complete re-draft. I always recommend comparing the measurements of a shirt you own to the garment measurement chart of a pattern to better visualize the fit before committing to a pattern and a size.
To experiment with unexpected volumes, starting from existing thrifted shirts and adding darts, shortening them, or adding gatherings, for example, can lead to inspiring results.
Style inspiration:
The skin-tight shirt: A '90s icon
Calvin Klein SS96 / Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, 1997 / Jil Sander AW2001
The oversized shirt, billowy, cropped, or longline: a timeless classic
Charlotte Rampling, 1979 / Chanel SS26 / Jil Sander AW19
The Collar
If volume sets a shirt's attitude, the collar sets its tone. It is often the first detail our eye lands on as it frames the face, and it can transport a shirt from classic to playful, utilitarian to romantic.
Historically, collars were far more flexible than they are today. In the 19th century, many shirts had detachable collars that could be swapped out and replaced as needed, since they were the only visible part of the shirt. They were the most likely to stain and required frequent cleaning, but they were also the most economical way to adapt a shirt to social requirements.
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Detachable shirt collars from Brooks Brothers. |
Today, the collar remains one of the shirt’s most expressive elements: pointed, rounded, banded, ruffled, open, or button-down. Even a small change (a longer point, a wider spread, etc) can instantly alter the mood and reference of the garment.
Collars are also tied to gender codes. Starched turndown or winged collars still read more masculine today, although designers often use them on women’s shirts, playing into that “borrowed from him” look. And while we may now consider pussy bows, jabots, Peter Pans, and other frilly collars as “feminine”, most historically originated in men’s dress. Fashion has long played with these reversals, and the shirt may be the ultimate androgynous garment.
For makers:
Consider the difficulty level when choosing a collar: shirt collars with a stand will require a bit more sewing experience than open collars. Small alterations can easily be made to a standard shirt collar pattern to make it unique to you. Rounding of the collar points, lengthening them, keeping only the stand for a grandad shirt look, or replacing the collar with a frill for a romantic look.
Style inspiration:
Bottega Veneta SS26 70s style pointy collar / Jil Sander SS22 the collar is replaced by a draped scarf / Dior SS26 structured pussybow reinterpretation
Chanel SS26 winged collar borrowed from the formal menswear / Loewe SS20, narrow band collar extended into a ribbon tie / Chanel SS26 winged collar borrowed from the formal menswear wardrobe / Margiela SS24 detachable collars as sculptural accessories.
The Cuffs
Just like collars, cuffs were once made to be detachable. In the 19th century, they were the parts of the shirt that took the most wear, so people simply unbuttoned them, washed them separately, or swapped them out. What began as a practical solution eventually turned cuffs into a status symbol, especially after the French cuff appeared and cufflinks were introduced.
That’s probably why a French cuff still feels formal and polished today. On women’s shirts, I love how this traditionally masculine detail becomes something elegant and unexpected. Add a jewelled cufflink, and it feels sophisticated; but leave that same cuff unfolded and unbuttoned, and suddenly the look becomes relaxed and nonchalant.
Personally, I’m always drawn to the tension of “formal elements worn undone.” A crisp shirt with open cuffs has this beautifully effortless, “just threw this on” energy. When I wear shirts, I’m constantly playing with the sleeves: rolling them up, bunching them above the elbow, or letting the cuffs hang loose. It’s such a simple way to soften the strictness of a button-up shirt.
Cuffs are also a great opportunity to add a sharp, graphic note that balances the collar. And there are so many variations to play with: Cuff depth, unexpected shapes, the number of buttons, or the length of the placket. The illustration below shows just a few examples of cuff variations.
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For makers:
The way you style your cuffs is a simple way to change the look of a shirt without altering the pattern. But if you’re into hacking, you can experiment with cuff depth, shape, or button placement, and even try tabs or drawstrings for a sporty twist.
Style inspiration:
Uma Thurman’s iconic Pulp Fiction shirt with wing cuffs as sharp as her fringe / Jane Birkin's effortless rolled up sleeves / Unknown - 3 buttons cuff with ties
Loewe French cuff with jewel cuff link / Celine SS20 short sleeve with unfolded French cuff / Hermes SS22 drawstring cuff for a sporty edge
The Front Placket
Historically, shirts were often pullovers with no full-front opening at all, which makes today’s buttoned fronts feel like a relatively modern innovation. A half-placket pull-over can give a shirt a relaxed, vintage vibe. For anyone “button-phobic,” a hidden placket offers a minimalist, clean solution.
Plackets can also introduce asymmetry and movement. Wrap shirts, for example, create a diagonal line across the bodice, bringing a sense of drape and movement.
The button size choice is also important: women’s shirt buttons traditionally range from 18L to 22L (approx. 11–14 mm), but larger buttons can create a bold graphic statement. Designers also experiment with ties, lacing, or alternative closures to reinvent the classic front opening.
For makers:
As you plan your next shirt project, think about how the centre-front closure will tie in the design. Consider using snaps for a utilitarian feel, oversized buttons as a focal point, mismatched buttons for some vintage charm, or even fabric ties for a softer, romantic touch.
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Style inspiration:
Audrey Hepburn wrap shirt with asymmetric placket / Jil Sander SS21 large buttons / Prada AW25 lace up front / Bottega Veneta SS25 pull over shirt.
Of course, this is just the tip of the iceberg. Countless other details give shirts their character: yokes, pleats, pockets, and all the small touches that can completely change the way a shirt feels and moves. The beauty of this garment is that it combines simplicity with endless possibilities, giving designers a familiar framework in which to experiment.
I hope this exploration gives a sense of how much room there is to play with for home sewists. You can take a classic shirt pattern, tweak a collar, change a cuff, or swap out the closure, and suddenly you can make something new and uniquely yours.